The proud Charlevoyou
Believe it or not, the Dufour story began 350 million years ago. In this Age of Pisces, a meteorite two kilometers in diameter and weighing 15 billion tons slammed into the Charlevoix region at a speed of 36,000 km/h. The mountains literally exploded in the hinterland, leaving a 56 km crater that, slowly but surely, would set the table for Maurice and Francine. Twenty-five years ago, like true pioneers, the couple concocted their range of Migneron fine cheeses on typically Charlevoix plots: too small to support large herds, but rich enough to give free rein to creativity and raise Alexandre and Madeleine, their precious offspring.
On the phone, Alexandre Dufour tells us about their ripening house, which employs 25 people. He begins by discussing the concept of raw material development, a concept passed down to them by his father. This principle goes hand in hand with the diversification they've always strived to pursue.
In partnership with a producer from Abitibi who came to settle in the area with his dairy sheep, nearly 150 curly heads have joined forces with the region's cows to provide local milk that produces just under a hundred tons of these matured cheeses destined for mass distribution throughout Quebec and... even at Costco!
In 2009, in this corner of the country where there are just 900 growing degree days, the diversification and enhancement of their plots of land took the form of a vineyard. After all, is there a product that pairs better with cheese? The easy way out is clearly not in the family's DNA, so the vineyard will be organic or it will not be. Mainly 100% local Muscat, whose bouquet now spreads in the form of 10,000 to 15,000 bottles of white or rosé per year!
With respect for the environment and the revaluation of whey being non-negotiable, in 2016, Alexandre and his sister Madeleine laid the foundations of their distillery by recovering this residue from cheese production. Thanks to their alchemist talents, they transmuted it into Charlevoyou . This whey brandy is their very own “vodka.” And they proudly claim ownership of it.
"We are the first in the country to recycle whey this way. There was no pre-established recipe. We set up the project from A to Z, and Université Laval helped us develop the process. Over the next few years, our main focus will be solid marketing of our spirits. Already this year, we should be able to sell nearly 1,000 bottles on SAQ shelves. And that's only going to increase."
With a bachelor's degree in administration, Alexandre handles, among other things, the business development side of things, while Madeleine oversees the distillery and the shop, which still represents 30% of their revenue. By fine-tuning every detail of operations and squeezing every last drop out of their precious liquids, there's plenty of room to create other small miracles.
The 31-year-old enthusiast claims to still have a few tricks up his sleeve. Already, a whey gin made from a blend of Nordic plants and mountain water has recently been created. And thanks to the fields that remain uncultivated, Alexandre is refining his dream of planting apple trees and growing rye to develop alcoholic ranges. Intoxicating projects, if ever there were one!
Photo credits: This is a beautiful studio
