By turning left onto Moeller Street, in the heart of Granby's industrial district, you wouldn't suspect you'd stumble upon a little gem of Quebec's agri-food and artisanal scene.
However, like a Gallic village in the middle of this industrial sector, it is here that we find the Absintherie des Cantons .
It is in this welcoming, artisanal, family-run distillery, the only one in Quebec specializing in the production of absinthe, that you can find the best absinthes in the world.
An overview of a local company that produces high-quality alcohols and spirits from field to bottle.
A great adventure, from the Absinthe Route to Granby
In his early twenties, after spending several years producing and organizing music tours and shows, Jean-Philippe Doyon became interested in the legalization of absinthe in France and Switzerland, where it had been banned for nearly a century.
Inspired by the myth, aura, and fascinating history surrounding this "artists' drink," Jean-Philippe acquired his first bottle of traditional absinthe. It was then that he realized that behind this alcohol lies a great intellectual complexity, necessary to create a balanced and high-quality product.
Eager to develop his passion and better understand the absinthe-making process, Jean-Philippe earned a study grant that led him straight to the Absinthe Route in Europe.
After visiting around fifteen distilleries (some of which are still clandestine!) from the French Jura to Val-de-Travers in Switzerland, the young entrepreneur was able to discover the extent of the know-how behind the cultivation and distillation of absinthe, which has been passed down from generation to generation.
The creation of the Absintherie des Cantons
Upon his return to Quebec, Jean-Philippe was convinced: he wanted to create his own absinthe distillery. His goal? To create a deeply rooted, family-run distillery, faithful to Quebec's terroir and representative of the Eastern Townships region.
After a few years setting up the business and planting absinthe and other herbs in Roxton Pond, it was in 2017 that Jean-Philippe and his parents and business partners Michel and Claudette unveiled their first 3 alcohols under the name Absintherie des Cantons: Fleur Bleue absinthe , Joual Vert green absinthe and the Wendigo sea buckthorn gin .
Five years later, in 2022, the Granby distillery was highly recognized at the World Drinks Awards competition in London. Fleur Bleue and Joual Vert won first place respectively. and 2nd places in the category of the best absinthes in the world.
A real source of pride for this family business, and for the Quebec agri-food scene!
The importance of traditional absinthe production
But what makes the absinthes and other spirits from Absintherie des Cantons of such high quality?
Jean-Philippe, Claudette, and Michel insist that the secret lies entirely in the production method. By opting for traditional, artisanal production from field to bottle, producers can maintain great control over the quality of the botanicals, which is essential for creating spirits with complex and balanced aromas and flavors.
More specifically, the traditional method of making absinthe involves macerating the plants in a neutral alcohol before distillation. To produce green absinthe, a second maceration is required after distillation. This extracts the chlorophyll from the plants, giving the alcohol a natural green color.
Thus, absinthe produced using the traditional method is free from any added sugar, artificial colors, and flavors. Furthermore, it is always produced in small batches to ensure better quality control.
When regulations affect success
One might think that after having stood out so much internationally by winning several prizes at the World Drinks Awards, Absintherie des Cantons would have no more obstacles to its success.
However, despite their established reputation, the company faces a number of challenges that prevent them from growing at the rate they would like.
Indeed, Jean-Philippe, Michel, and Claudette are disappointed that they can't develop an attractive agritourism offering. At the time of writing, the markups required by the SAQ for direct sales at the distillery amount to 52%, which is the same as purchasing the product from the SAQ. Therefore, hiring an employee to present the company and its products to curious agritourists would not be profitable at all.
This problem also means that small Quebec spirits producers risk disappearing to make way for industrial competitors. This would have direct repercussions not only for consumers, who end up with a lower-quality product offering, but also for tourist regions, which could greatly benefit from a growing number of agritourism businesses.
The Quebec Union of Microdistilleries continues to campaign with the government so that local microdistilleries can sell their products in their stores without a markup, as is the case for other alcohol producers in Quebec.
Despite these difficulties, the Granby family is hopeful that things can change. Stay tuned!
A visit to the Absintherie des Cantons
Since developing an agritourism offering is currently challenging, the Absintherie des Cantons has turned to another solution. It is now one of three stops on our Signature Tour, "The Alcohol Tour."
During the tour, agritourists will discover the Absintherie des Cantons facilities and their distillation processes. They will also learn more about the history of absinthe, this mysterious plant, as well as the history of absinth making itself.
The tour ends with a tasting of their delicious products, including Fleur Bleue, the best absinthe in the world!
An experience not to be missed if you are a lover of high-quality alcohols and spirits and to support a local business that works hard to promote our beautiful land!
